Smooth surfaces are not a whim of spoiled customers, but a necessary condition for the quality of the finish. You can argue for a long time about how best to level the planes, but if the elevation differences are too large, nothing else, like the installation of GKL, was invented. After installation, it must be puttied. For those who are going to do everything on their own, we will figure out how to putty drywall.
Do I need to putty plasterboard before finishing
Do I need to putty drywall before wallpapering or painting? Nobody likes the prospect of doing extra work. Especially if it is complex, painstaking and time consuming. Puttying belongs to such. Therefore, many novice masters ask about the advisability of applying putty paste on gypsum board sheets. After all, they look even. Sometimes this is really superfluous, but most often additional alignment is necessary.
Paint, especially glossy, reveals the slightest flaws in the base. And there are plenty of them on drywall. Starting with inconspicuous dents obtained during transportation or installation, ending with holes in which the screws of the screws are recessed. Wallpaper can hide a small part of defects, but most of them they will also show. For this reason, the base for paint or for wallpaper should be thoroughly plastered.
Do it yourself with your own hands to prepare a drywall base for tiles or decorative putty. But here you will need to carefully seal joints, seams and traces of fasteners. Thus, under the paint, the base is putty in two layers: starting and finishing composition. Under the wallpaper, especially if they are dense, impose only one layer of the mixture. The surface under the tile can not be putty, but careful sealing of large defects is necessary.
Do-it-yourself plasterboard putty: step-by-step instructions
Before starting work, you need to select the material. There are three types of putty in stores: polymer, plaster and cement. The last option is better not to use. The solution will not be plastic. It will be difficult to stack, and most importantly, it is almost impossible to clean. Deriving an even plane in this way is extremely difficult.
Gypsum compounds are plastic, they fit well and do not crack. It will take two different materials: start and finish. The first is distinguished by large filler particles, therefore, it hides bumps well. There are special preparations for corners and joints, you can choose them. Finishing solutions are finely dispersed, they effectively level the base. In this quality, polymer-based formulations are especially good.
When choosing, pay attention to the form of the drug. It can be a ready-made solution, they are sold spilled in containers. It is enough just to mix before puttingty. So most often produce polymer pastes. Gypsum is usually sold as a dry powder. Before applying it is kneaded with water. This must be done in strict accordance with the instructions. Otherwise, the properties of the solution will change.
The required amount of water is poured into the container, powder is poured in small portions with stirring. The paste is well mixed, after which it is left for 10-15 minutes, then stirred again. Now she is ready to go. A small amount of material is kneaded in one go. It dries quickly, and you can’t dilute the mass with water again.
Preparatory work
They necessarily include priming. Skipping this step is highly discouraged. The primer performs two functions at once:
- Reduces the absorbency of the base. Given that GCR is porous, it easily absorbs moisture, the use of a primer significantly reduces the consumption of putty solution in the future.
- Increases adhesion or adhesion between materials. The risk of delamination, the formation of air bubbles is reduced, the finish lays more evenly.
Let us dwell on the choice of primer. GKL primer under the putty mass is best with a solution for deep penetration. You can choose a composition for porous substrates. What to put on top of the putty depends on what it is planned to decorate the surface. Under the wallpaper, wallpaper glue diluted with water is applied. For painting, a deep penetration primer or diluted paint is applied. It is necessary to clarify in the manufacturer's recommendations.
There are primers for wet and dry rooms. This point also needs to be considered when choosing. If there is a real threat of mold or mildew, it is better to take a drug with antiseptic additives. Priming is most conveniently carried out with a roller; a brush is used for corners and inaccessible areas. You can handle everything with a brush. The soil is applied abundantly, in one layer. Further work is carried out after it has completely dried.
How to repair seams
- We collect a little solution on the instrument.
- We press it to the surface, with a little effort we carry it over the head of the self-tapping screw. The dent is filled with a putty compound.
- In the same place we again use a tool to remove excess solution.
Similarly, close all mounting holes. Sewing a seam is a little more difficult. Let's figure out how to close them. Technology depends on the shape of the edge of the sheet. Some plates undergo a cutting process during the manufacturing process. The result is an edge cut at an angle of 45 °.
How to work with reinforcing pad
- We are preparing a reinforcing pad. It can be a plastic sickle or paper tape. Cut the fragment of the desired size. Soak the paper in clean water.
- We take a spatula, pick up the paste on it.
- Gently fill it with a seam so that it closes completely.
- Press the paper part. We stick the tape on the joint.
- We take a spatula and begin to squeeze the reinforcing element into the drywall. We move from the center to the edges. We remove the excess paste that appears during this process.
- We extend the joint flush with the surface. To do this, we again pass through it with a putty mass.
Serpyanka is rougher than paper. Its fibers can stick out ugly from the seam. It can be fixed a little differently. The tape is glued to a dry joint. Then fill it with a mixture, leveled. This procedure is easier to execute and takes less time, but there is a possibility of voids under the grid.
Sheets with uncut edges must be trimmed before processing joints. To do this is quite simple:
- Wet the edges of the plates. To do this, wet them with a wet brush. The operation is repeated two to three times until the gypsum is wet.
- We take a knife with a sharp blade, carefully cut the edge at an angle of 45 °.
Before processing, the embroidered joint is best primed. After that, it is filled in any way described above.
Corner trim
The design of the internal and external angles is different. To reinforce the section of the joints of the ceiling with the wall or two walls, use a sickle or paper tape. The technology resembles work with joints. First, a little solution is laid on the corner, a tape is placed on top of it. It is pressed with some effort into the base. Excess composition is removed, finally level the plane.
Do I need to putty drywall before wallpapering?
When planning to finish surfaces with any material, you need to keep in mind: sooner or later the coating will have to be changed. If you do not putty GKL before applying the finish layer, remove it during repair together with the paper layer of sheets.
Moreover, any proven method of exposure to remove, for example, old wallpaper - steaming, soaking, scraping, rolling “wallpaper tiger” - leaves its traces on the unprotected paper surface of the gypsum panel.
If you pre-putty the entire surface, and not just the joints and attachment points - there will be no problem, you can change the decor several times. In an extreme case, if a small area of the putty surface is damaged, it can be reprocessed before the next cosmetic repair.
Another good argument in favor of putty - self-tapping screws can rust, therefore, in the absence of embossing, sooner or later, “decorate” the elegantly finished surface.
Finally, very thin wallpapers and thin layers of light paint will not necessarily “interrupt” the native green or pink color of the GKL cardboard coating.
Do I need to prime drywall before puttying?
The main property of the primer is to improve the adhesion between the base and coating material. If you plan to close only corners, joints and mounting holes on drywall, it is permissible to neglect the primer stage. But masters recommend priming ALL surfaces, up to the smallest defects.
Moreover - for reliable adhesion of all layers, it is desirable to apply a primer:
- before and after puttying of joints and defects. It’s convenient to work with a small brush, carefully soaking the area of work,
- angles before and after installing leveling and arch-forming elements,
- the entire surface to be finished before applying the finishing putty and after that - for painting, plastering or wallpaper. It is more convenient to work with a roller (for the ceiling - on a long handle).
To avoid a possible “conflict” between the putty and the primer, it is better to take products from the same manufacturer and pay attention to the labels: the primer should be designed specifically for drywall!
Putty for drywall - what to choose?
As you know, if there are three types of putty materials - cement, plaster and polymer. At the same time, everyone has their pros and cons:
- cement are the cheapest and most universal, but have a characteristic grayish color. An exception is mixtures based on white cement. Adhesion to the surface depends on what brand of cement was used and what additives are in the composition,
- gypsum work perfectly, give a clean white color, adhere well to drywall. However, they do not tolerate moisture, in rooms such as kitchens, bathrooms, balconies, they should not be used,
- polymeric practical, easy to use and give a perfectly smooth surface, but have a higher price.
After the base material is selected, it is necessary to determine the type of putty - base or finish.
When choosing a material, it is important to be aware of exactly what stage it will be used for. If only for sealing joints and defects, “puttying” of self-tapping hats - you can take the starting, and even cement, for the final surface finish for finishing - the finish. The larger the grain of the mixture, the more rough work it is recommended to perform. There are universal compounds, they can be used for sealing and for finishing gypsum plasterboard.
Preparation of structures for decoration
Plaster sheets during the installation process may acquire certain defects that must be fixed:
- when twisting self-tapping screws, the caps are “sunk” into the GCR surface too deep, and pits have formed. Dents on a paper surface are also possible. If the self-tapping screw “went” too deep, it is better to unscrew it and replace it with another, longer one,
- the paper “lining” of the panel has peeled off or a crack has appeared on it. The exfoliated material must be carefully cut, puttying the damaged area using reinforcing material (mesh, special tape). Cracks are “embroidered”, putty with reinforcement (in the photo below, figure 1 shows small cuts and puttying - damage, punctures, pits, cuts),
- the edges of the panel are crumbled or broken off, initially they were not quite even, they were inaccurately trimmed when cutting the sheets. It is necessary to make a chamfer - cut the edge at an angle of about 45 degrees with a sharp knife. Next, the “embroidered” seam is putty with reinforcement (in the photo above, the number 2 indicates the “embroidered” seam, the number 3 is a high-quality factory edge of the sheet that does not need to be embroidered),
- at the corners, the GKL joints turned out to be uneven. A common problem that is corrected by the use of special reinforcing corners or paper tape with metallized strips for putty. In the photo below (in order from left to right) - metallized paper tape, plastic corner, metal corner. Plastic and metal corners are available for right angles - solid - and for arched openings, with the possibility of smooth bending (side surfaces are made up of individual elements or may be incised). Corners with a reinforcing mesh (the upper one on the far right) are used in cases where an increased mechanical load on the corner is assumed - for example, frequent random bumps, shocks (in door and window openings), heavy lining.
Necessary tools for puttying drywall for painting and other types of finishes
We have already said enough about the materials - it is necessary to choose the right type of primer and putty in accordance with the volume and nature of the work. You can calculate the required amount of putty using an online calculator by entering the appropriate values for the layer thickness, the surface area to be treated and the material parameters.
In addition to materials, you will need:
- set of spatulas. In addition to the usual metal of different widths, angular, soft (rubber or silicone) may be required,
- screwdriver or drill, or better - a construction mixer for the preparation of putty. To work with the finished polymer plaster and the finished primer is not needed. When working with dry formulations, two containers are additionally required - a large one for mixing the mixture and a smaller one, for postponing a small portion with which they work directly,
- brush for priming joints, mounting holes and defects, as well as for priming joints and corners after initial processing,
- primer for large surfaces,
- rule for checking the geometry of surfaces,
- sandpaper or a special trowel net for grinding putty areas. For a large amount of work, a grinder may be required, for small ones a special grater is suitable (an emery or mesh is attached to it), or a block simply wrapped with abrasive material. Abrasive sponges of medium and small grain size are also convenient.
- level or laser roulette with level, level - all these measuring tools are needed for the correct "exposure" of the corner or other reinforcing structures of the elements.
Considering that a lot of dust is emitted during grinding, and some types of primers and putties are slightly toxic during work, you should also buy gloves, protective clothing and a respirator.
Sealing joints, holes and defects
With regard to seams, you can follow the recommendations presented in the illustration below.
The directions of the spatula or grater are shown by the red arrows.
- Primer surfaces with a brush or brush.
- Application of the base layer of the starting or universal putty on the seam. With embroidered seams, it is better to putty across the future embedment line, with a shallow depth and width of the seam you can work along the line.
- Adhesive reinforcing tape. If the option with an adhesive layer is used, it is necessary to wait for the putty to dry, if it is an ordinary tape, it is pressed into the material layer.
- Then a second layer of putty is applied on top of the reinforcing tape, and thoroughly smoothed with a wide spatula or grater.
- After drying, the area is ground and primed for the next step.
Plasterboard corners putty
For this, as already mentioned, an angle forming tape or corner is used. The tape is optimal for internal corners, corners - on the outside.The procedure is the same: a base layer of putty is applied, a tape or corner is pressed into it.
After drying, there is an external layer of putty - and again for drying. Further grinding and primer.
You can view the process in more detail in the master class.
For work with external corners (perforated metal corner) we suggest watching another video. Installation is shown on the example of window slopes, it is proposed to use a furniture (construction) stapler as an additional tool.
Here, also, a layer of starting putty is first applied - and quite thick.
A perforated corner is attached to it so that the putty protrudes from the holes. There should not be voids under the corner, otherwise it will not hold well, and there will be problems with the correct geometry of the angle. Further, the putty that has come out with the help of a spatula is evenly distributed over the surface of the corner and the adjacent wall.
Use a stapler instead of putty for mounting can only be on even angles. As shown in the photo, for a smooth and uniform hold-down of a corner, a level is used (as a rule, as a rule, but then you have to check the verticality separately). The step of installing the brackets is at least 10 ... 15 cm.
For arches from drywall, the procedure for finishing the corners is a little more complicated. In this case, the use of a stapler for fixing the corner is even more justified - it is not so easy to fix the arc on the putty.
For greater convenience, the front plane of the wall, to which the arch adjoins, and the edge of the inner curved part, are puttyed together, as shown in the photo.
Further, the corner intended for arches is fixed so that its solid part lies on a curved surface, and the split part diverges “fan-shaped” along the plane of the adjacent wall. Then, using a stapler, fix the corner on the arch with a step of 3 ... 5 cm.
Top putty is done in the usual way.
Finishing plastering of walls made of drywall for painting
This procedure is performed on the same principle as for ordinary - plaster - walls. The main thing in this is to correctly distribute the layer of material and take care that no roughness occurs on smooth walls. The layer thickness is usually taken 0.5 ... 1 mm, and it is desirable to make two layers with an intermediate primer.
The nuances of work are shown in the video.
Conclusion
Despite the considerable complexity and duration (taking into account the drying time) of the plasterboard putty for painting, wallpaper or plastering, do not neglect this stage of repair. It will allow in the future to significantly expand the possibilities of cosmetic repairs and reduce the number of problems when changing finishes.
Why is this needed?
Drywall is a very popular material, since it is very easy to work with, and it is inexpensive. With the help of gypsum sheets, even the most “ugly" uneven surfaces can be leveled. However, even after their installation, you should not immediately proceed to the finish.
Plaster sheets are preferably treated with putty. Many home craftsmen are wondering why it is necessary to carry out additional work, because drywall already has a perfectly smooth and smooth surface. Of course, carrying out such work is not always mandatory, but most often you just can not do without puttying.
Putty is necessary in order to carefully close up various details that spoil the aesthetic appearance of the finish. Such elements include sloppy joints between sheets of drywall, corners and noticeable hats of screws. In addition, puttying is simply indispensable if you plan to paint drywall substrates.
Plaster sheets only seem to be perfectly flat. In the process of installation and transportation, such building materials acquire new surface drops. At first glance, such defects may not be noticed at all, but after painting they will become striking.
In order not to encounter such a nuisance, gypsum substrates must be covered with putty, then uneven areas will be invisible.
Also plastering of gypsum is necessary if you are going to decorate it with wallpaper. This is necessary so that after some time you can seamlessly remove the old paintings, without damaging the drywall, because without an intermediate layer, such a finish, when tearing, can also pull the base material. After this, you will have to completely change not only the wallpaper, but also the entire lining, and this will take you much more time, effort and money.
Currently, in stores you can stumble on low-quality gypsum boards, initially having uneven surfaces. As mentioned above, it is far from always possible to notice such defects, and you can find a defect only in the process of repair work. In such cases, putty is also indispensable.
Cement
Cement-based formulations are the most popular. They can be found in almost any store of construction and decoration materials. Such mixtures boast excellent strength characteristics and moisture resistance. Due to these characteristics, they can be used in the design of such rooms as a kitchen, bathroom or bathroom.
However, it is worth noting that for the preparation of gypsum walls for painting under normal conditions, cement compounds are not used so often. This is due to the fact that such solutions over time give considerable shrinkage, and also differ in a longer term of solidification.
Gypsum plaster
The second most popular are gypsum-based putties. Such mixtures exhibit enhanced adhesion to drywall sheets. In addition, they are distinguished by their versatility of application, sufficiently fast setting and ease of processing.
Of course, gypsum putties have their drawbacks. The main one is the fear of dampness and moisture. That's why such mixtures are not recommended for use in rooms with a high level of humidity.
Acrylic
Polymer-based formulations are very popular because they have practically no drawbacks. They combine all the best from other types of putties. True, such mixtures are not cheap, but their service life and other operational characteristics justify the price.
How to choose a putty?
Before proceeding with the selection of putty, it is necessary to determine the direct type of room in which it is planned to carry out finishing work. From this fact directly depends which putty is best suited and how long it will serve in the conditions provided.
Finishing putty before gluing any type of wallpaper can be made using a special composition, but recently, many consumers have opted for universal solutions, since the spectrum of their application is much wider. Such products can be safely applied to both the base and the finish layer.
It must be borne in mind that different types of putty are suitable for different rooms.
In the kitchen, in the bathroom and in the toilet, as a rule, a high level of humidity is maintained. For such situations, special GVL is often used, which is not afraid of dampness and moisture. In addition, in these rooms most often tiles are laid on the floors, so putty should be selected as wear-resistant, moisture-resistant and durable. Polymer and concrete compositions are suitable for this description.
In a living room, a cozy bedroom or a children's room, conditions are considered more benign, since these rooms are dry. In such situations, it is perfectly acceptable to use a simple gypsum putty.
In dry spaces, where a higher temperature is always maintained, it is recommended to use high-quality polymers or gypsum mixtures. It is better to refuse concrete options, since in such circumstances they can give noticeable shrinkage.
The most common and popular today are inexpensive concrete and gypsum mixtures. Of course, they have their drawbacks, but there are also many advantages.
The best option is acrylic putty. Such mixtures can be purchased in large packages. Such products are relatively inexpensive and will last for several applications. In addition, if the mixture is universal, then it can be safely used in the decoration of a variety of rooms.
Why putty drywall?
Nobody wants to work extra, waste precious time on extra work, so we often wonder if we can do without finishing putty, because it is much easier to putty just rough? Yes, in some cases it is possible, but not in all.
Each time, after working with drywall, we have to close up the joints, hide the caps of self-tapping screws, and smooth out irregularities that arose during installation. Also, long-term storage of GCR or improper transportation can also make their own adjustments.
The Knauf company, which is one of the flagships of our market for the production of drywall, makes it possible to avoid puttying GKL sheets when using them for wallpaper or tile, not counting only the corners, joints and the hats of the screws themselves.
They achieved this goal with a special primer - water dispersible paint, diluted with water. This primer on the surface of the processed sheet turns into a thin film layer, which perfectly combines with any kind of glue, and also protects drywall from damage in case of breakage of wallpaper.
Therefore, the question of how to putty drywall is irrelevant in the case of choosing Knauf.
Using primer for GCR
There are a number of significant advantages to a drywall primer. Firstly, with its help, adhesion of adjoining materials occurs, which greatly reduces the occurrence of bubbles, peeling of the same wallpaper or tile. Secondly, it is evenly distributed over the entire surface, which helps to reduce the consumption of materials.
The primer is always used when decorating rooms, especially when working with drywall, because with it we improve adhesion with putty, reduce the consumption of glue when pasting wallpaper. Additionally, they use a primer even after starting putty, so that the finish layer is better held, otherwise, you may encounter some problems, such as rolling or rolling it off.
It is best to choose a primer depending on the type and stage of work. Putties are best used with the properties of deep penetration.
Step by step instructions
When you finished installing drywall sheets, You have to finish them further. If you plan to paint, plasterboard puttying should be done in no less than two stages.
Drywall putty technology is as follows:
- Be sure to apply a primer with dry penetration properties on drywall.
- We close the holes remaining from the screws.
- Putty joints.
- We putty internal and external corners.
- We apply a primer for GKL.
- Finish the surface with starting putty.
- Grind the bumps.
- Apply a drywall primer.
- Puttying with the finishing composition.
- We cover the walls with a primer for the final work.
And now we still find out which putty to putty drywall on. Use both polymer and gypsum. Polymer putties produce the final finish, as they help to level the surface. Gypsum, however, can be either starting or finishing, depending on the size of the grains.
Putty for drywall is of different types - ready to use, or dry, requiring dilution with water. Of course, it is better to use the first one, so you are guaranteed to protect yourself from lumps that can occur when the dosages are not correct, but it is also an order of magnitude more expensive.
Ground surface
Even before puttying, the drywall surface must be prepared in advance as a dry and clean material. We erase dust, various impurities with a vacuum cleaner or with a damp cloth. We prepare the primer and lubricate the walls with the help of paint tools.
For rooms with high humidity, it is recommended to choose a special primer to prevent mold.
Drywall is mainly primed with a single layer, but if necessary, can be duplicated, as, for example, in a kitchen or bathroom. The following finishing steps can only be started after the overlay has dried.
We close up seams and hats of screws
For filling the joints, special formulations Fugenfuller, Knauf Uniflot, Knauf-Fugen, and their analogues are used. These types of putties dry out very quickly, so it is recommended to breed them in a small dose.
It is best to apply the putty with a small spatula on the heads of the screws, in parallel with this, you can cover the joints.
GKL edges have their own characteristics: along - the edge is thinned, and across - a straight line. Of course, butt joints are a little harder to close up, but more on that later.
Vertical joints
Initially, when closing the longitudinal joints of drywall with a thinned edge, the space between them is filled with putty.
Then a damp putty is glued with a sickle or reinforcing tape. This is to prevent possible cracks. When using a tape preliminary soaking within several minutes is necessary. After that, the tape is glued to the joint and putty on top again.
Edged seams
Putty plasterboard with a straight edge in places of cutting and joining sheets can only be processed before. It is necessary to moisten the edges of the GCR with water, and after wetting the gypsum at an angle of 45 °, make small grooves. This work is best done before priming.
Lubricate the joints obtained with a primer, after drying, fill the seam with putty. It is best to use two spatulas of 10 and 20 cm. First, smaller, distribute the mixture. The second, larger, remove the excess. It is very important to fill the seam well so that a small tubercle protrudes above the plane. If this happens, then everything is done correctly.
Lubricate the seam again using freshly prepared putty. The thickness of the new layer should be about half a millimeter. After that, we attach a pre-soaked paper tape for reinforcement to the seam. Use a spatula to remove excess putty.
It must be ensured that there are no jamming on a paper tape. Once again, we collect the excess composition and distribute the remaining putty with a thin ball.
And if so: first tape, after putty?
Some are chasing time and money, just glue on gypsum board or a self-adhesive mesh, or a sickle, or paper tape. At the same time, the junction remains empty. Such a connection will come out out of it with skewed wallpaper, cracks. In this case, saving is inappropriate. If you apply the right technology, then when gluing wallpaper, drywall walls will not fail.
By the way, serpyanka and self-gluing have significant drawbacks. Serpyanka cannot hold the necessary rigidity, it is deformed, stretched. Fabric fibers interfere with the finish, bulging with fine wrinkles. The self-adhesive mesh spreads right away without reinforcing anything.
Puttying of external and internal corners
Puttying the corners of drywall is an important and crucial moment of decoration. Finish them using the corners of metal shitrok and aluminum, paper tape and sickle. In the decoration of internal corners, reinforcing tape or sickle is usually used. The principle is the same as in the decoration of the seams. The junction is putty, paper or sickle is attached from above, the excess composition is removed.Then the corner is finished with the thinnest layer again.
Perforated aluminum corners are used to finish external corners. It is cut at an angle of 45 ° or slightly less. An angle of 90 ° is not used. They do this so that the metal does not puff in the process.
To fix the aluminum corner, putty is applied in small doses at an equal distance of about ten centimeters. The corner is pressed, its position is checked, the excess mixture is removed, leading to an even plane with respect to the entire surface. After the putty dries, the edges are ground, if necessary, putty again.
Sheetrock is more convenient to use since it has a paper base. It is stiffer than paper tape and, unlike aluminum perforated corners, does not lead to sharp changes with the rest of the surface.
Grinding corners and joints
Grinding is delicate and very dusty, so care should be taken. Believe you need to curtain with a damp cloth - this will prevent dust from entering other rooms. It is also good to cover the floor with wet rags or wood shavings.
If previous work was carried out carefully and in compliance with the technology, then grinding will take a little time.
First, all the tabs are cut off. Then grinding begins directly. A grinding grid with a mesh size of 180-200 is attached to the bar. They do the work. For better grinding use oblique light. But if wallpaper is planned, then it is possible to grind and not so conscientiously.
It is necessary to use personal protective equipment - glasses, a respirator, gloves. It will save your health.
After grinding, the primer is primed again, as the settled dust will interfere with further work.
Do-it-yourself plasterboard putty
To rejoice at the native home walls to the fullest, it is better to putty drywall. Your home will get a presentable and well-groomed look. In addition, contemplation of uneven walls can adversely affect the intrafamily psychological climate. Plastering the walls of drywall event responsible. It so happens that the owner himself is taken for the repair - an unprepared and impressionable person. He faces a lot of questions. First question: how to putty drywall, what tools to use? It will take two spatulas - a large one, with a blade length of 40 cm, and a small narrow one. GKL putty is made in several stages. What putty to choose for drywall at the first stage of work? First, use the start. It is applied with a thick layer of 5 mm to hide all flaws and irregularities.
Second question: how to putty drywall? We will answer - a simple matter. Using a small putty, we apply some amount of putty along the edge of the large spatula. Then, pressing the spatula against the wall, we distribute the putty. Repeating in this way, we putty the walls of drywall. Then carefully level the surface. The better the alignment, the less grinding will be required. After the putty dries on the drywall, we proceed to grinding. The surface is cleaned of dust and primed. Use a deep penetration primer. Again let dry and move on to further work.
How to putty drywall in the second stage? It is necessary to apply the finishing putty. What putty, you decide. It is based on gypsum or polymers. Finishing putty is bred thinner and harder to use. In order to qualityly plaster walls from drywall and get an ideal surface, it is best to pre-wall the walls and then everything will be in the best possible way. The technology of work itself is similar to the first stage. The difference is that putty is applied with a thin layer and quickly leveled. After the putty walls have dried, they are taken for grinding. This is done with fine sandpaper attached to the bar. For a perfectly smooth surface use side or bottom lights, and preferably an LED lamp. She will help to reveal the smallest irregularities.
How to choose the right putty
Before puttying drywall, it is necessary to choose the right putty. Among modern building materials, there is a fairly large selection of special mixtures for putty:
- surface finish
- crack removal
- putty joints and fasteners
- decorative finish
Dry putty is more profitable to buy than ready-made mixtures. It is stored longer and is not so susceptible to temperature extremes. When choosing a putty for drywall, it is worth distinguishing mixtures based on:
- cement
- gypsum
- polymer
Each of these materials is well suited to putty plasterboard in different rooms. For example, gypsum is not suitable for use in rooms with high humidity, so it should not be used to putty drywall surfaces in the bathroom or kitchen.
Cement putty does not let moisture through and is not afraid of temperature changes, perfectly leveling and sealing up all errors (chips, cracks, crevices, seams). That is why cement mixtures are most often used to putty GKL joints in kitchens and bathrooms.
The most versatile putty is polymer. This material is very plastic, and its consumption is small. Another positive point will be good performance.
Primer Features
To prepare GKL sheets for further work (wallpapering or painting walls), it is necessary to apply a primer from water-soluble compounds. This material turns into a moisture-proof film, which does not allow the adhesive to penetrate for wallpaper or paint.
Gypsum plasterboard priming is carried out not by alkyd mixtures, because they can deform the cardboard surface of the drywall sheet. At the same time, bubbles can form on the peeled paper surface, which eventually crack and turn into hanging rags.
To increase the adhesion of the drywall sheet, special processing mixtures are used, the application process of which is carried out in three stages:
- drywall preparation
- solution preparation
- plasterboard primer application
The consumption of such a mixture is insignificant, but at the same time the adhesion level rises several times, so saving on a primer mixture is not worth it. The optimal primer mixture should have the following characteristics:
- high penetration and adhesion
- dust binding ability
- resistance to chemicals
- antitoxicity
- quick drying
- high level of moisture resistance and heat resistance
If you buy a high-quality primer, then you can protect the walls from the occurrence of fungal and mold formations, thereby increasing the life of the decoration.
Self-preparation of drywall for high-quality putty
Before you begin to putty the plasterboard surface, it is necessary to eliminate all the irregularities of the walls. When processing surfaces, do not tighten the bolts connecting the sheets. The joints should not show signs of peeling of the paper surface from the gypsum base. For the primer of drywall, various compositions are used. The most difficult job is puttying the ceiling.
Primer surfaces are carried out in several stages:
- thorough processing by the ground composition of all seams, joints and fastening points of screws
- leveling
- primer for the entire drywall surface
- surface treatment after puttying before further finishing work (wallpapering or painting)
For priming surfaces, it is most convenient to use a special basin and roller. Before priming the putty, the roller must be wrung out. When choosing a primer, attention should be paid to such parameters:
- mixture cost
- manufacturer
- shelf life
Wall Putty Methods
To solve the problem yourself, you need to read the instructions and perform the following types of work:
- plastering the walls of drywall begins only after the sheet is fixed to the surface and primed
- to putty the screws, use the crosswise puttying method, filling the slots of the hats with the prepared mixture
- Before puttying the corners, it is necessary to glue a special plastic (or metal) corner, which allows you to further strengthen the corner so that no further chips will form, as well as to put hard-to-reach spots
- after fixing the sheets, you can cover the surface with the first layer of the solution. At this stage, starting or universal putty can be used. A wide spatula is used for finishing, allowing to withstand a layer thickness of not more than 1-2 mm
- when the putty layer is completely dry, the surface should be treated with a special sandpaper
When applying putty, it is necessary to withstand uniform pressure and tilt angle of the spatula relative to the surface. This method allows you to achieve the most even surface without scratches and protrusions. Depending on the subsequent finish, additional surface coating with a special finishing mixture may be necessary. If the putty mixture was not applied correctly, it can be removed using an abrasive net after the layer has completely dried.
Finishing putty
The last type of finishing work on the preparation of the walls, which allow to achieve the most even surfaces, will be the application of the finishing mixture. Coating the surfaces with the finishing mixture occurs in stages:
- Before you putty the walls of drywall with a finishing solution, it is necessary to eliminate all roughness and roughness. This can be done using special emery sandpaper.
- dilute the putty mixture for finishing should be up to a certain consistency - liquid sour cream. Such a density of the mixture will allow the solution to be applied most evenly and thinly over the entire surface.
- Before finishing (painting or pasting), you need to wait a certain time until the mixture hardens. This time is indicated on the packaging of the selected finishing putty
The final stage is the final grinding and dust removal of surfaces using special tools (brushes or vacuum cleaners). Before proceeding with the finish, it is necessary to wait until the surfaces have completely dried.
How to correctly calculate the consumption of putty for a drywall
The consumption of any material depends on the processing method and surface features. The more irregularities, the more putty is needed to eliminate them. To correctly calculate the consumption of putty mixture for finishing, consider the following proportions:
- cement mixes - one square meter to one kilogram, and then add one hundred grams
- gypsum mortars - one square meter to one kilogram
- adhesive mixtures - one square meter requires half a kilogram
To calculate the amount of consumables, you should know exactly the area of all surfaces that will be to be finished (it is enough to sum the areas of all GCRs - the area is indicated on the packaging of each sheet). Starting mixtures are taken in about the same amount, but a small supply is made.
Dry mixes must be diluted in such a way that there is no more than half an hour of solution. Even the dried mixture should not be used.
It is not necessary to re-level the puttied surfaces. Such procedures can lead to new irregularities and the rapid destruction of the layer due to the low level of adhesion.
When processing GCR, you need to responsibly approach each stage of the finish:
- starting mixture treatment
- skinning irregularities
- primer surfaces
- finishing treatment
- primer surfaces
Only after correctly completing all the preparatory stages, you can begin to finish the GKL. Qualitatively processed sheets in the future are easily cleaned from the old finish, while re-filling is not necessary.
